How to Celebrate Dia De Los Muertos in Guadalajara Like a Local

Growing up in Southern California, Mexican culture runs through every aspect of my hometown and my childhood: our streets are all Spanish words, in elementary school we put on Cinco De Mayo performances, and real authentic Mexican food tastes more like home than hotdogs or hamburgers ever could. I remember being 8 or 9 years old and my mom taking me to my first Dia De Los Muertos celebration in downtown Ventura, just a few minutes from our home. There were altars and lit candles, framed photos and glowing skulls, and music in the streets. 

Experiencing the celebration in its home Mexico had been a long-time dream of mine. We love being a part of major cultural experiences in their original homes and experiencing the true authentic origin of where traditions that we know begin. From celebrating Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany to attending an Indian wedding in Northern India, these have become some of my absolute favorite travel experiences. So when Visit Guadalajara reached out to us about joining in on Dia De Los Muertos in one of Mexico's greatest cities, there was no chance we could miss it. Since we were traveling with locals, we were able to see a truly authentic, local side of the celebration  - read on for all the details on how to do the same for yourself!

The History:

Día de los Muertos is a time when families honor and remember relatives and loved ones who have died, with food, offerings, flowers, and gatherings. The traditions bring together Indigenous beliefs and Catholic observances, and vary between communities. What struck us most was the sense of remembrance and celebration together.

The calaveras, or  sugar or clay skulls, have been made for hundreds of years, and the tradition is for families to place them on the altars (or ofrendas) of their lost members. The Catrinas (skeletal face painting and statues) actually did not become a part of Day of the Dead until the early 20th century. According to Wikipedia: 

Day of the Dead is celebrated across Mexico and in communities abroad. The events and traditions vary by place, so check the local program before planning your visit.

Fast Facts:

1. Guadalajara is one of Mexico’s largest metropolitan areas and the capital of Jalisco.
2. You can get direct flights from a number of US cities (LA, SF, Dallas, Portland, Chicago, Atlanta, etc), as well as many cities in Mexico.
3. Currency: Mexican pesos. Check the current exchange rate and allow extra room in your budget for festival dates.
4. Before booking, check your government’s current travel advice for Jalisco and Guadalajara, and ask your accommodation about local transport and neighborhood conditions.
5. Day of the Dead centers on November 1 and 2, with surrounding events on other dates. Confirm the current year’s parade and festival schedule before arranging travel.
6. Weather: 65-80 degrees in the day, 50-70 degrees at night during early November

Where To Stay:

1. Hotel Demetria Bungalows: One of the coolest and most instagrammable hotels in the city, we loved our stay at Demetria! The bungalows are massive and beautifully minimalist. Ours had a full kitchen and an indoor/outdoor shower! The hotel is right in a very fun, young area of town and is close walking distance to a huge selection of restaurants and nightlife. Check current rates for your dates.
2. Villa Ganz Hotel Boutique: Beautifully designed,  this modern hotel is full of Old World elegance and is one of Guadalajara most acclaimed hotels. Check current rates for your dates.
3. Hotel Demetria: Demetria Bungalows ultra-modern, glass towered sister property, complete with floor to ceiling windows and a rooftop pool. Check current rates for your dates.
4. Hotel Morales Historical & Colonial Downtown Core: Located right in historic downtown Guadalajara, this historic hotel is luxurious but puts you right in the heart of the city. Check current rates for your dates.
5. The Westin Guadalajara: A beautiful modern hotel with all of the details you would expect from a Westin. Check current rates for your dates.

Local Food Not To Miss:

1. Pan De Los Muertos: This special, sugared bread is everywhere during the holiday. The puffed bread is fluffy and tasty,  topped with sugar, and is served for breakfast, lunch and dessert. The design across the top represents femur bones.
2. Torta Ahogada: This 'drowned sandwich' is a local favorite. You start with a classic Mexican torta sandwich, and then it is drowned in a spicy tomato sauce in a bowl. It is messy and delicious!
3. Cafe de Olla: The traditional Guadalajara way of serving coffee, mixing fresh brewed coffee with cinnamon and raw sugar and traditionally brewed in clay pots for an earthy flavor.
4. Street Tacos: You can't go wrong! We stopped a couple of times around the city at little street taco stands and fed our entire group for just a couple of dollars
5. Birria: A spicy meat stew in a red adobo sauce traditionally made with goat meat, but also is available is beef and chicken. If you're cold, there is no better way to warm up. This is also known locally as the best hangover remedy.
6. Cantarito Cocktail: This tequila drink is called a cocktail, but it is more accurately describes as an entire punch bowl- they are HUGE! A mix of tequila and citrus juices, this differentiates itself from a margarita not only by its dangerously large vessel, but also by being topped with soda for a bubbly drink.
7. Pozole: Another form of delicious, delicious stew, pozole is warm, comforting, spicy, and amazing with tortilla. A long time favorite food of mine and is not to be missed in Guadalajara!

Where To Eat:

1. Casa Luna in Tlaquepaque:  If you go out to only one restaurant in Guadalajara, make it this one! This absolutely gorgeous restaurant is one of Guadalajara's finest, and is always decadently decorated. The location right on the main Tlaquepaque street also makes it the hottest spot to eat during the Dia De Los Muertos Parade - make a reservation in advance. During the middle of our dinner, they had a performer come in and perform a fire dance right in the middle of the tables - and it was amazing!
2. La Postreria: An ultra-chic and modern bakery, La Postreria is amazing for brunch and also some of the most beautiful pastries I have ever seen. 
3. Casa Bariachi: A super popular birthday and party restaurant, Casa Bariachi serves large family-style dishes and has live lunch performances with mariachi music and groups of dancers. Locals LOVE to come here in large groups and have a ton of fun getting a bit rowdy.
4. ..... Did I mention street tacos? Cost: Less than a dollar. Location: Literally everywhere. Taste: AMAZING

The Parade - Tlaquepaque:

The place to be for the Dia De Los Muertos parade is Tlaquepaque, the incredibly instagrammable city just South of central Guadalajara (about a 30 minute drive from the historical center.) In the day, the center of the town is known for colorful umbrella-lined streets, cobble stones, and lots of shops. On the parade evening during our visit, the town transformed into a sea of people. The date can change each year, so confirm the current program before booking. After the sunset, the street became so packed that it took quite a while to move through the crowds. Over the last few years, Dia de los Muertos has become one of Tlaquepaque’s most popular and exciting events.

While in Tlaquepaque, don't miss the Catrinas Brides Fashion Show - a contest where local women dress up as Catrina Brides (Bridal Gowns, but with skull face paint makeup.) The women here really go all out on the contest - some had full body paint, some had dresses with endless cathedral trains, some of the gowns were woven with glowing lights, and some had husbands or children walking with them. The show is fashion show style, where each walks down the runway for their moment to shine. It's definitely an experience not to be missed!

Cost: Free to join, vendors are all around for food, drinks, shopping, face painting, and games.
Time: Check this year’s event schedule; the timing below reflects our past visit.
Location: Jardín Hidalgo, Tlaquepaque Center. Map link here.

Face Painting: 

One of the most recognizable symbols of Dia De Los Muertos is the skull - from the sugar skulls to the Catrina painted faces, this symbol is what the celebration is known for. While celebrating, one of the things you must do is have your face painted! 

Luckily, there are many, many vendors throughout the parade area set up early to paint for you. On our visit, we paid around $5 US for a hand-painted face, and the girls have a huge deck of reference face paint designs to choose from - I also found the flower crown to complete my look at the face paint stand for just a dollar or two. I went with a floral design that left my lips red, and Brandon was really loving his half and half skull face. I would recommend to show up to Tlaquepaque a bit early, around 4PM or so, to get your face painted before the crowds - and so you can get a few photos before the sun goes down.

If you are looking for something particularly specific, intricate, or with lots of add ons like rhinestones, crystals, flowers, feathers, etc, you can hire a painter to come directly to your hotel room for a personalized service. 

The Coolest Theme Park - Calaverandia:

One of the coolest experiences we had in Guadalajara was a visit to the Calaverandia! The theme park opened in 2018 and has become very popular over the last couple of years . Walking into the park is a lot like stepping into a scene in the movie Coco, with live musicians, neon lights, skulls, candy, cempasúchil flowers, ofrendas, rides, and stage performances - it is WILD. Inside the parks are many food options and bars to enjoy, and all the vendors are entirely cashless - instead there are workers floating around that will load your bracelet from your credit card that you use to make purchases. My favorite section was El Inframundo (or Underworld), an interactive performance dripping in glowing neon lakes and trees and incredible performers. A night at Calaverandia is definitely not to be missed! If you only have two days, the combination of a night at the park and  a night at the parade at Tlaquepaque will not disappoint. 

Calaverandia dates, ticket types, and opening hours change each season. Check the official site for the current program and tickets before planning your night here.

The Costs:

These costs reflect our past trip, not current quotes. Check your dates before budgeting.
Budget Hotels: $40-80 / Night
Luxury Hotels: $80-130 / Night
Meal in Cheap Restaurant: $5 / Person
Dinner for 2 in Mid-range Restaurant: $20-40
Cocktails at Restaurant/Bar: $3-6
Beer at Restaurant/Bar: $1-3

What To Do in Guadalajara:

Guadalajara and Tlaquepaque sightseeing tour: Combine the historic city center with Tlaquepaque’s streets and craft shops on a guided day out.

Private Tequila day trip: Explore the Tequila region with a dedicated guide; check the selected itinerary and tasting inclusions before booking.

Mexican bread-making workshop in Tlaquepaque: Make traditional sweet bread and visit a candy factory, with the exact bread recipe depending on the selected class.

Outside of the Dia De Los Muertos celebration, here are the top sights and things to do while in Guadalajara

1. Check out the Historical Center: Many of the old Guadalajara buildings look like they were teleported straight from old European cities. Spend an afternoon exploring by yourself, or check out a walking tour. Don't miss the Guadalajara Cathedral! Check out some tour options here. 
2. Take the Jose Cuervo Express to the town of Tequila, Mexico: One of the coolest daytrips you can take anywhere. I will be sharing a full blog on this and the Magical town of Tequila soon!
3. Visit the Instituto Cultural Cabanas: Once an orphanage, this museum is a Unesco Heritage site and serves as a gallery for Mexico's most famous muralist.
4. Stroll through the Bosque Colomos: An endless, gorgeous park in the middle of the city with forest trails and a Japanese garden.
5. Look Up at the Palacio de Gobierno: A historic 18th Century building originally built for government use has some of the most wild ceiling murals I have seen anywhere.
6. Take a Day Trip to Lake Chapala and Ajijic: Mexico's largest lake and a cute, vibrant, popular ex-pat town are just an hour's drive from the city. 

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See Calaverandia’s official program for this year’s dates and ticket information.